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Touring the Towns

The Hilton Trinidad & Conference Center makes the perfect nest for travelers who want to see Trinidad's sights, and there is so much to see. By rented car, or guided tour the island is easy to navigate and offers many treasures...

Majestic green peaks and steep hills slope down to the ocean and 1.3 million people of African (40%), East Indian (40%), European, Middle Eastern, Chinese and Amerindian descent call this 50 mile wide, 37 mile long isle (the size of Delaware) home.

The bustling, sprawling capital city of Port of Spain is the thriving heart of Trinidad. By day workers weave through the streets, in and out of office buildings and past the traditional gingerbread houses. Traffic swirls around Queens Park Savannah, a city focal point. It is a flat open park that was donated to the municipality in the 1820s by a colonial governor. Here, joggers, skaters, cricket and football players play while vendors sell roast corn and coconuts. The Hilton Trinidad & Conference Center overlooks the park.

To get an understanding of the island's rich history, I headed to the National Museum and Art Galleryon the southeast corner of the Savannah. Artifacts from the country's first Amerindians, souvenirs from Carnival and paintings from 19th-century artist Jean Michael Cazabon are on view. The Botanical Gardens and Emperor Valley Zoo are near the park too, and walking distance from the Trinidad Hilton. Woodford Square on Lower Frederick Street is home to the Anglican Trinity Cathedral (built between 1818 and 1823). Parliament sits in the Red House, which dates back to 1907.

On the western side of the city, St. James is the liveliest neighborhood. The streets are lined with small shops, many owned by East Indians who were brought to Trinidad to work the fields after slavery was abolished. Most didn't take to farming and instead became merchants. Fast food restaurants attract locals who gather day and night. The hot spots are KFC and Smokey N Bunty's. Try Bunty's roti, Indian bread cooked on a griddle, filed with split peas, curry and vegetables. Chaguramus is another popular bar- and restaurant-filled district. And boats from all over the Caribbean dock in the Marina section that tends to be far off the hurricane path during that season. Try the delicious Callalloo soup at Crews Inn restaurant.

Nighttime brings out Trinidad's festive spirit. Diners jam restaurants like Tamnak Thai, Jenny's on the Boulevard (Chinese food), and Veni Mange (traditional Trinidadian). Drinks like Lazy Limer (passionfruit and lime juices, vanilla ice cream and rum) and Carib beer are poured, served and quaffed at bars like The Cellar and Mas Camp Pub. Then revelers jam discos like The Base and Coconuts dancing to the cool rhythms of Soca music.

Carnival Time

After the emancipation of slaves in the 1830s, Carnival emerged and became a sign of liberation, an outrageous event marked by dancing, singing, drinking and revelry. Over time, this holiday coined its own music (Calypso in the 19th century, steel bands in the early 20th, and Soca of late), created its own fêtes, contests and parades. Like Brazil's Carnival, Trinidad's extravaganza takes a full year of preparation, which gathers full steam after the New Year when steel bands practice nightly in panyards and house and public parties become daily events. As the festivities head up to the Monday and Tuesday before Lent there's a "Panorama" competition (battle of the steel bands), contests for Calypso Monarch, King and Queen of Carnival and more. Saturday hosts the Kiddie's Carnival, and before dawn on Monday the "J'Overt" procession begins. Decorum fades, the celebration starts and few hands are without a bottle of beer or a cup of rum. The most outrageous participants paint themselves in oil, mud or blue paint.

On Fat Tuesday, a big, rousing, vibrant, costumed parade snakes through the streets of Port of Spain, ending in Queen's Park Savannah. Steel bands (competing for the "Band of the Year" title) set the pace as stilt walkers and revelers gyrate their hips and do the "wine," a provocative, hip-thrusting dance. The Trinidad Hilton & Conference Centre is a great place to stay during Carnival. Reserve a room months in advance and definitely book your airline ticket way ahead of time.

Out on Island

I ventured to the Pointe-a-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust, an enchanting bird preserve in southern Trinidad 45 minutes south of Port of Spain. It's a serene, beautiful and foliaged bird preserve set on twenty-six hectares with two lakes and hiking trails. The Trust provides a refuge for 86 species of birds, e.g., waterfowl (Wild Muscovy Duck), wading birds (Blue-winged Teal) and songbirds (Red-capped Cardinal). It actively breeds endangered species for release and re-introduction into natural wildlife areas. A learning center and a small Amerindian Museum are added attractions for adults, kids, bird watchers and naturalists. Arrangements for visits must be made in advance.

The next day I drove north over the Northern Range Mountains (once part of the Venezuelan Andes) to Trinidad's most popular shoreline, Maracas Bay Beach, a horseshoe-shaped bay. The hills behind the dunes are densely forested; Tyrico, a smaller and quieter beach, sits at the far end of the bay. Yes, I enjoyed the sun, surf and people watching, but, the highlight of this day trip was Richard's, a cabana-style food stand, where the specialty is bake-n-shark-- a shark filet cut thin and fried in dough called "bake." Yum! And when I wanted to add a little flavor, there were handy bowls of tasty garnishes: mango chow; mango chutney; tamarind sauce and shadowbene (green cilantro sauce).

Trinidad is off the hurricane path, so it's a fun, safe trip, all year long. And the regal Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre welcomes you with open arms. It offers the island's most high quality accommodations and dramatic views. I can't promise you the excitement of the Ms. World swimsuit competition every time you stay at this Hilton, but if you time it right, that glamorous competition or Carnival can really spice up your Trinidad vacation.

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